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It's the Imperial I have posted over in the "Show us your knives" section.  I'll get another picture. I found it at a garage sale for a couple of bucks and it turns out to be a great blade.  Weird though, the sheath is a hard plastic/vinyle kind of thing.

 

Sounds like somebody made a kydex sheath for it. What an odd looking knife! I'm going out of town tomorrow for a conference in the southwest, we'll talk when I get back. How long is the blade?

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Sounds like somebody made a kydex sheath for it. What an odd looking knife! I'm going out of town tomorrow for a conference in the southwest, we'll talk when I get back. How long is the blade?

It does look a bit odd, but for field dressing a deer, it works wonderfully.  Someone had used a grinder on the blade, so it took a while to clean that up, but it sharpens great and holds an edge very well. The blade is sturdy and is solid enough to split the sternum and separate ribs on a deer.  It is similar to some of the Shrade Old Timer.

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Here's a couple of pics of my recent "most favorite" craft, building muzzleloading pistols from kits.  The first pic shows 3 completed pistols - the top one is an old CVA .45 caliber which I purchased built but in completely unuseable, rusted-ugly, and otherwise horrible condition.  I worked on it for about 4 months on and off, sanding, soaking, sanding, soaking, you get the idea, then rebrowned the barrel and tried my best to add a decent final finish to the stock.  It has been restored (and checked first by a competent gunsmith) to shootable condition, though not the prettiest piece I've ever seen.

 

Below it is a kit I built called a New Orleans Ace, another .45 cal.  The grip is still a bit bulky but after 2 weeks of daily sanding and dremel work I called it "good enough" and put a very light satin finish on it (possibly maple, I've gotten rid of the stain and don't recall exactly).  I have never fired it because I don't like the way the butt attaches to the barrel, but it came out looking okay.

 

The third pistol is a tiny little cap and ball derringer, single shot, in .31 caliber.  Available as a rough brass kit of parts, I actually opted to just buy a finished one here, mainly because I am well aware of my own limitations when finishing metal, secondarily because I got tired of working final finishes onto brass stuff in the army, and thirdly because i also ordered another large frame pistol kit at the same time which is going to require a lot of care and time to finish properly.

 

The second photgraph is a size comparison between the .45 cal, the little derringer, and the yet to be finished Crockett pistol kit in .32 caliber.  The Crockett is a HUGE gun, fifteen inches long from butt to crown, and weighing 2lbs, 14oz unloaded.  My intentions towards this one are a bit offbeat in nature - I plan to finish the stock in a Green Tea stain from Minwax's waterbased collection, and the barrel will be high-heat primered in gray before a finish coat of either an olive drab or a slightly darker gray.  The hardware (lock, trigger, etc) will be primered then painted black for an overall 3 color semi-camo scheme.  I have located some Williams Fire-Sight fiber optic sights which should fit nicely in the dovetails as well. 

 

So it should turn out to be somewhat modern in appearance for a replica, and I'm guessing with decent sights, a 10.5 inch barrel, and a bit of patience in working up a load, it should shoot like a dream as well, so this may become my small game and turkey gun of choice.  Wish me luck, works starts on this one this evening.

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Have to get back to y'all on the build of the .32 pistol - the weather has been way too cold to prime/paint the barrel and lock assembly and I don't have anywhere indoors to accomplish those tasks.  Snowed in now for a couple of days, looks like, so I should be able to finish filing and trimming everything and may even get to stain the stock - pics coming when progress is made.

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Good looking cap and ball pistols! Where do you get your materials?

Pretty much all of the parts for the kits are included, and I like a place called The Possible Shop - their prices are fair, shipping is quick, and it's kinda neat to know the goverment might notice I made a call to Roswell, NM (that's their main telephone order site).  I have gotten the odd spare part from Dixie Gun Works, their service and delivery is also excellent.  Both of them use Traditions and Deer Park for a lot of their supplies, and since I tend to order the cheaper kits, that's where almost all of my stuff originates.

 

I'm not a good enough woodcrafter to do this stuff from scratch, but I may make an attempt on a .50 cal derringer and that's gonna require putting together parts from various places - probably a next summer practice project.  I have an old .50 caliber rifle with a synthetic stock which will probably supply the barrel, and I my overall plan is to have a derringer, pistol, and rifle in each caliber, .32, .36, .45, and .50 eventually.  The .32 and .36 rifles will be last because they are hugely expensive propositions and extremely time intensive to build from what I've seen and read.

 

Powder, patch, ball, primer, aim, fire!  (Or at least lots of smoke).

 

So far, locating a green stain (the Tea Green from Minwax) was the hardest part - had to go water based because all of the polyurethane (oil based) stains are in some shade of brown.  I suppose most people don't like green furniture or picture frames.  Lowe's actually can mix any of Minwax's water based products so I lucked out there.

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Member Swedesneighbor builds flint locks and hes planing to go to the big muzzle loaders conclave in Kentucky next summer. Do you go to that Mntman?

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i made this a while back to hold my cold steel throwers and a pistol a Friend gave me. the pistol works but i dont know anything about muzzelloaders. and yes, i probably spelled the latin wrong but i wouldn't be razor if i didnt.  the latin means  "if you want peace, prepare for war" one of my favorite sayings and a philosophy i have always adhered to.

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That pistol looks a whole lot like the .45 I pic'ed a few pages back - feed her about 20 grains of FFFG, an .010-015 patch, and a .440 round ball and she'll make ya' love her.  You can go up to 30 grains on the powder if you want to shoot all the way thru stuff, at 18 grains you run the risk of a ricochet.  Number 11 percussion caps should fit fine.  If you haven't shot it yet, make sure it's clear by blowing thru the bore with the hammer up off of the nipple (sorry ladies, that's what they're called - shoulda seen the look Lisa gave me when I told her I needed to pick up a nipple wrench).

 

These pistols are pretty much indesctructible if you don't overcharge them with powder, yours looks in sweeter condition than the one I bought and refurb'ed.  Hope you get a chance to shoot it, you may end up liking black powder as much as I do - if the worst ever happens and commercial ammo eventually runs out we'll all be molding our own bullets, cuttin' our own patches, and mixing our own powder anyway (be using flintlocks, too, when the caps run out).

 

My dearest darling missus got me a smaller version of that in a kit for Christmas - it's a Philadelphia Derringer, also in .45 caliber and will shoot pretty much the same load.  The weather axed my plans to finish the Crockett Pistol before the holidays, so now I have two to start and finish.  I think I may go with the same finish and hardware touchups on both - gonna have to go ahead and blue the barrels since it'll be springtime here before it'd be warm enough to paint 'em.

 

Pics when done (I know I keep saying that - I'm asking for your patience as much as I have to employ mine - lots going on and I have matured enough to put family matters before hobbies most of the time).

 

Merry Christmas!

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By the way, as far as I can tell from two years in high school and another couple in seminary, your latin's fine.  It has been a while and I did not actually become a padre (I was sort of kicked out of seminary for unruly behavior), but the latin stuck with me for a while.

 

As far as loading it up and leaving it - there is a process called "seasoning" the bore using something similar to "Bore Butter" or other natural lubricant.  If you haven't heard of it I can write you the details; I am sold on the method after decades of trying to keep rust and tar out of these weapons.  Once the bore is seasoned, I have no problem loading the pistols (and rifles) and leaving them ready to go for up to a week at a time indoors. 

 

Once a week, all of them go outdoors with me for some target practice, and when I'm done I wipe them off and out with bore butter, reload, and am ready again.  I use the same product to lube the patches when I am shooting too.  Once or twice a year (usually before fall season and spring turkey) I get all of them out for a real good scrubbing and repeat the original seasoning process.  I've got an old CVA Bobcat rifle that has been treated this way for almost 12 years now, and it is in better shape than back when I was cleaning it 2 or 3 times a week with Hoppe's and RemOil.  I have left a couple of the pistols loaded for up to three weeks due to time constraints or absences and they fired on the first squeeze with no hangups or delayed firing noted, although I was a bit surprised by it.

 

And no, I wouldn't hesitate to defend myself with a .45 caliber muzzleloader, they carry a very heavy piece of lead at or above .45 acp velocities, and there are three presently situated around the house.  Make no mistake, if I'm in the bedroom I'm grabbing the Keltec, but if someone busts in a window or door elsewhere, I will pickup a .45 single shot in a heartbeat.  If I miss or note a second assailant, someone's liable to get clubbed in the noggin' with a fair heavy chunk of metal and wood, too.

 

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Here was my shop project this year

 

randoms004.jpg

holy crap Watcher! that is awsome work. you are doing a great job. wish we could make stuff that nice in my garage. keep it up and you will have a career no problem.

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